04/05/10 Update EMPP Dodge Diesel Trucks

04/05/10 Update EMPP Dodge Diesel Trucks

Postby jpf1030 » Mon Apr 05, 2010 2:45 pm

Howdy All,
I have corresponded further with folks at Dodge Cummins Forum on EMPP for '98 and back 12 valve Dodge Cummins diesel trucks and am posting the reply below. We are working on identifying suppliers for the recommended components that are being recommended to change out. When that is determined, the info will be posted here...jpf
This is the message that was sent from Dodge Cummins Forum:

I would go with a '94-'95, install manual shutdown cable, wire in external regulator for alternator, install switches for overdrive and converter lockup, wire in second push button start switch and install all manual guages (oil pressure, water temp, volt gauge or amp and aftermarket fuel level like a marine type. This would give you everything you have to have to work and bypass the PCM."[/COLOR]
JPF Comments/?'s: I understand we will need to carry an extra PCM(ECM).I'm not clear on the voltage regulator, if it is already external or we would need to convert to external.Seems we should just get an extra alternator along with a set of replacement diodes to give an extra alternator as well as repair EMP damaged diodes. Your other suggestion seemed to indicate a list of items to install to fore-go the PCM via bypassing it with: manual gauges, kill cable, marine fuel sender(?), push button start, overdrive and converter lockup switches (toggle?), and external regulator for alternator. If I understand you correctly, this suggestion means the auto transmission would function without the PCM. Maybe you think we are a bit paranoid, but I assure you that is not the case. We want to be ready for anything. We now have our wood gasifier doing test burns and hope to be able to test it on the dodge diesel within a month. First we will test on other less expensive engines. We have plenty of wood in Montana to make fuel. We are also designing and building bio-diesel processor and alcohol fuel still. We will not run out of fuel! We have so many projects we are working on, it gets dizzying. Since I last wrote to you, we have set up a blog/forum to share info with folks interested in self-reliance preparedness. You can check it out at www.bsoscblog.com if you have any interest. Thanks again for your great help...Jim Farley
Ok,,, you guys need to get a "full" wiring diagram of each of your models as the breaks in model and sometimes year will cause changes in the wiring..
The PCM (power-train control module) controls most everything except the engine. the ECM (engine control module ) Controls the engine. the 12v engines didn't have an ECM that started in 98.5 with the 24v engine and the VP44 injection pump. the earlier (pre 98) did have a PCM that controls, auto trans, speedo, ABS, tach, dash gauges, airbags, A/C, etc. Most of the stuff that the PCM controls can be overridden via switches. It is up to you as to how to wire them in, and control them, a quick look at the wiring diagrams will provide you with the sensor wires, and then its up to the multimeter to figure out how many volts it needs to trip... the dodge truck run 4.5 volts DC to the dash clusters.
External Regulator for the alternator is easy. Search the 98.5-02 section of the forum for the thread "Computor went out of my truck (supposedly) WTF" I posted the process and the part numbers there. basically its a Transpo part # VR8315 its about the size of a memory chip for a camera and is a stand alone voltage regulator. as the dodge used a bosch or a Nippen denso alternator and relied on the PCM to regulate voltage. I being a re-power and Chevy being an internal voltage regulator, had to figure out a way to regulate the voltage on the Cummins Alternator, before using it on my truck, as uncontrolled voltage would have fried something.... this brings me to gauges... I would ditch the amps gauge, and install voltage gauges on everything, this is the most reliable way to show a voltage/charging problem early on.. the amps gauge will read the amps in the battery, and wont show faulty charging system till its to late.
The grid heaters are easy,,, old Ford Starter solenoids, like the ones found in a Warn 8274 Winch, one for each grid heater, wired up to either a momentary switch, or a push-button, (this is so some dumb schmuck, all groups have them) doesn't leave the grids on and allow them to burn up. or burn continuously, thus draining the batteries. They are only designed to burn for about 10-25 seconds each in alternation. they pull about 250amps per cycle thus you have to have top-notch batteries, I personally run DEKA 1000CCA at 0*F in duals. If your that worried about these things,,,, you could install battery cable switches... like the master switch on a Cat Loader, which turns off the battery power to everything, Thus eliminating the chance of residual power being left in a diode or capacitor. The military has been doing this for years.... and it eliminates the chance of for mentioned dumb schmuck leaving the ignition turned on.
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